Leseprobe

Protagonists & their Artistic Representation 276 duced by his uncle, Erik XIV, in 1561. A few years after Gustavus Adolphus’s coronation, further sumptuous gar- ments were ordered in 1620 for the young King’s wedding to Maria Eleonora of Brandenburg, including a travel cos- tume which, together with other items of clothing, was com- missioned from Sebastian Lelij in Hamburg. The King’s ‘travelling clothes’ are covered with gold embroidery and sequins, with the flowers and fruits depicted each having a symbolic meaning: the roses stand for love, the carnations for marriage, the lilies for heavenly blessing and the acorns for strength and virility (fig. 3). The bespoke garments were created for the King in Stockholm and sewn together by FIG. 2 Baltzar Dinet (tailoring), Carl Plageman (embroidery) , Coronation garments of Gustavus Adolphus, Stockholm, before 22 October 1617, white silk satin, embroidery with silver, silver threads and wire; doublet: length at front 53.5 cm, hose: side length 65 cm, leg circumference: 153 cm, Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, inv. no. 25605 (3374:a) doublet, 25606 (3374:b) hose FIG. 3 Baltzar Dinet (tailoring, Stockholm), Sebastian Lelij (material, Hamburg), “Travelling outfit”worn by Gustavus Adolphus in connection with his wedding to Maria Eleonora of Brandenburg, Hamburg and Stockholm, 1620, material: blue silk satin, gold threads, sequins, gold embroidery; lining: linen, silk taffeta; doublet: length 43.2 cm, hose: side length 68 cm, knee circumference: 60 cm, Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, inv. no. 31301 (3347:a) doublet, 31302 (3347:b) hose Baltzar Dinet.3 Other items from the royal wedding have also been preserved,made in the black and yellow of the Vasa dynasty and in the red and white of the House of Branden- burg, including items of equipment for the tourney, such as horse blankets, lances for the guard of honour, and helmet wreaths embroidered with gold and silver.4 Just like his pre- decessors, Gustavus Adolphus attached great importance to acquiring ceremonial garments of the highest quality for the purpose of demonstrating his royal authority. It was not only ceremonial objects that served as tes- timonies of royal power, however. Gustavus Adolphus was the first Swedish monarch to develop the ambition to estab-